Ahhh, a tale of two cities. We as Westerners sometimes forget that the other side of the world was rocking along as Europe developed. The dynasties of Korea formed in about 40 BC, and had a real growth period in the 300 AD period. In the 1300's this palace, pictured on the right, was the center of culture in this country. Gyeongdungbok was the place to be. It appears that they didn't get very far after this period; basically fending off the Chinese and Japanese for about the next 1,000 years. To give you some idea of the growth over here, seems that they lay claim to the first real metal-type printing press, about 75 years before the Gutenberg (sp) bible was printed. Needless to say, that claim may be a bit controversial in the West, but they claim they have a UN resolution to prove it....

So, now, after a few hundred years of isolation and dominance by Japan, they are playing catch-up big time. So far, they have done a great job of "knocking off" everything others have done (like Japan did 40 years ago). Just look at the cars. Every one is good mechanically, and they all look vaguely like a car someone else designed -- a BMW, Mercedes, Lexis, you name it. But they seem pretty determined. Heck, the Hyundai I drive looks like a 2004 Jaguar. Really, it does. Don't laugh.

Now, the new Korea is the picture on the left. Tons of riot police outside the very temple guarded by the 1300 AD soldiers. Seems they have pretty big demonstrations on a daily basis around here, and one was ginning up again today. Democracy in action, and apparently still a little messy.

And here is a mystery. Hardly any crime. One of the safest counties in the world. Poverty here to be sure. So what's the secret? There was a 5,000 won note ($5) on the floor here outside the hall where the dirt-poor mothers-to-be stay here at the orphanage, and it stayed there for 4 days.